DUBLIN: A SHORT VISIT, A LONG HISTORY
By Glynn Burrows
Earlier this year, I had the great opportunity to visit Dublin for a short visit with a group, and I was really blown away by the city. It’s a place where the modern, friendly atmosphere sits right alongside centuries of profound history.
There are, of course, the things we have all heard about: the Guinness Storehouse, the Jameson Distillery, and the Molly Malone statue. However, for those willing to wander, there are also some truly fascinating places that delve into the city’s complex past.
The first thing to mention is that Dublin is a pleasant city to explore on foot. It isn’t very hilly and feels very friendly too, so just wandering around and seeing where your feet take you is a good way to pass a few hours. I found a great footpath along both sides of the River Liffey, which allowed me to walk down one side, cross over the famous “Ha’penny Bridge” (pictured above – so named for the old half-penny toll), and walk back, enjoying the shops and houses lining the banks.
The Call of the Republic: At the GPO
Wandering down from the hotel, I made my way to the GPO—the General Post Office. While it is still a working post office with beautiful architecture and period counters, its main significance is historical. This building served as the headquarters of the 1916 Easter Rising, and the museum within explains the critical events that led to the formation of the Irish Republic. It is truly like stepping back to the old days, providing a powerful look at the birth of a nation.
Palaces and Power: Dublin Castle
Another visit that helped explain how Ireland as a country came to be was to Dublin Castle. Although a castle has stood on the site since around 1200, much of what is visible today dates from later renovations. Still, the site is a treasury of history, offering fascinating remains dating back to the Vikings, as well as a tantalising glimpse of early Medieval fortifications, including parts of a gate and a section of the moat.
Tracing Roots: The Emigration Story
For anyone interested in family history, the Irish Famine, and mass emigration, the excellent Irish Emigration Museum is essential. It tells the profound story of why the Famine came about and looks at the reasons behind the fact that countless North Americans have Irish ancestry.
Standing on the River Liffey is the “Jeannie Johnston,” a replica of a mid-19th-century ship that took thousands of passengers across the Atlantic. If your ancestors were amongst the masses who made that perilous journey, the tour of this vessel is a deeply moving way to understand the difficulties and desperation your family members endured to escape almost certain death through starvation.
A Study in Contrast: 14 Henrietta Street
Although I enjoyed all of the places I visited, my favourite was 14 Henrietta Street. The house began as a typical, beautiful, upper-class Georgian townhouse, home to one of the wealthiest members of society. The fascinating, and heartbreaking, story here is its transformation.
In just over a century, the building went from being one of the best houses in the city to being home to over 100 of the poorest people in Dublin by 1911. Seeing how the finery and opulence of the Georgian upper class differed from the brutal existence of those who called the house home just before World War I—where multiple families were crammed into single rooms—is something to behold. The house preserves this stark social history in a powerful, unforgettable way.
The Heart of the City
The final part of the trip was, of course, a couple of visits to a real Irish Pub. The evening entertainment, with a trio singing great local songs, and the unique atmosphere were something to truly experience. Listening to genuine Irish music while sipping a perfect pint of Guinness was the perfect end to a visit that went far beyond the tourist guides and into the long, rich history of Dublin.
Glynn provides customized, private tours and also helps his clients trace their English family history. Past guests have visited and experienced stately houses and gardens, castles and churches, ruins and villages, birding and wildlife, World War II airfields, and general area taster tours too. Accommodations can be in all types of establishments, from character buildings such as windmills, thatched cottages and castles, self-catering or five-star luxury – just say what you want, and it can be arranged. Nothing is too much trouble for Glynn! Visit www.Norfolk-Tours.co.uk
