EXPERIENCE THE ENTICING CHARM OF SEVILLE
By Debbie Stone
As I strolled around the narrow streets of Seville’s central historical district, it was hard not to notice the number of dressed-up people all heading in the same direction. The women were impeccably made up, wore brightly colored, flamenco-style dresses, and carried matching folding fans. The men sported business suits and ties or formal wear. And as to where they were going, I had no idea, but prompted by curiosity, I followed them.
I walked along the river and across a bridge, accompanied by a steady stream of people strutting their peacock finery. Eventually, everyone converged on what appeared to be a fairground with hundreds of tents lined up as far as the eye could see.
When I peered into some of the tents, I saw groups eating, drinking, and dancing, but many of these activities also spilled out into the streets. And I noted plenty of flirtatious behavior, as well!
I stopped a trio of women, and in my halting Spanish, I asked them what they were celebrating. I learned it was Feria de April (April Fair), one of the most exuberant festivals in Spain. Held two weeks after Holy Week, the fair heralds the spring season and is a peak social event in the city. For seven days, Sevillians gather at the fairground and party 24/7.
As for the tents, each hosts a private party for a club, association, or family. There’s a bar and buffet inside, overflowing with libations and tapas, like thinly sliced cured ham or the traditional gazpacho. Music is everywhere, whether from a sound system or a live band. And people take turns dancing flamenco, while others clap and boisterously cheer them on. I saw entire families with all generations present, even little kids, making merry with gusto until the wee hours. It gave me new appreciation for the stamina of Sevillians!
The festival builds in fervor up to the weekend, and as it comes to a close, there’s a fireworks show. A dazzling ending to this high-spirited event.
Seville is one of Spain’s most popular and beloved cities. Life here is lived outdoors, on the patios of cafes and bars, and in parks, plazas, and open-air markets. It’s a colorful, vibrant town and a traveler’s delight.
There are many highlights in Seville. Of them, the three World Heritage Sites: the Cathedral, the General Archive of the Indies, and the Real Alcázar take top billing when it comes to history. And they’re all located around Plaza del Triunfo.
The Cathedral was founded in 1403 on the site of a former mosque. Boasting five naves, it’s the largest Gothic house of worship in Europe, and ever since its creation, it has continued to be used for religious purposes.
A few Moorish influences remain here, including the decoration of the Patio de las Naranjas, or Orange Tree Courtyard, and the minaret (now the famous Giralda bell tower). The patio, which is lined with orange trees, was used by worshippers who would wash their hands and feet in the fountains under the trees.
You’ll find orange trees in many places throughout the city, and their blossoms are intoxicating. These are bitter oranges, and historically, they were believed to have happiness-inducing qualities. This led to thousands of trees being planted throughout Seville. The fruit is used to make baked goods, jams, lotions, wine, and other products, which are sold throughout Spain.
As for the Giralda, you can walk to the top of this tower via a gently spiraling ramp. Curious about why there’s a ramp and not stairs, I learned that centuries ago, the Muezzin, or prayer caller, couldn’t face doing the climb five times a day, so he rode his horse up instead, thus no steps. When you reach the top, impressive panoramas await.
Inside the Cathedral, the Great Chapel has a vast altar piece, the largest and richest in the world. It’s regarded as one of the finest examples of Gothic woodcarving. Statistics vary as to the amount of gold involved, with one estimate at nearly a staggering 90,000 pounds!
The Chapter House, with its magnificent domed ceiling, is breathtaking. Look down and notice that the ceiling is mirrored in the marble décor of the floor.
Another main attraction of the cathedral is the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Though other cities claim to hold the remains of the famed explorer, recent DNA tests prove beyond a doubt that this tomb is the final resting place of Columbus.
Columbus is partly responsible for the existence of the General Archives of the Indies. At the height of the Spanish Empire, this building was the entry point for merchants and their goods arriving from the Americas. The Archives is an assemblage of all the documentation about the administration of the Spanish colonies. This impressive Spanish Renaissance building, which was constructed in 1585, houses some 80 million pages and 8,000 or so maps. Supposedly, if you place all this documentation in a straight line, it would extend for more than six miles!
Nearby is the Real Alcázar, one of the world’s oldest palaces still in use. It was originally built in the 10th century as the palace of the Muslim governor. Today, it’s the Spanish royal family’s residence in the city.
This lavish group of buildings and extensive gardens blends Christian influence and Muslim features. It’s full of mesmerizing tile work that graces the walls, floors, and fountains, creating a kaleidoscope of color and geometry. There are also classical columns, Italianate frescos, arches, ribbed vaults, and soaring ceilings.
The gardens are simply stunning with hundreds of different plants and flowers, exquisite fountains, exotic trees, aqueducts, and even peacocks. It’s a place to stroll, then rest and take in the lush surroundings.
Barrio Santa Cruz is the historic center of Seville and where you’ll find the above historical landmarks. It’s a maze of narrow, winding streets with plazas and squares, and plenty of tapas bars and shops. Odds are you’ll probably get a bit lost as you wander in this rabbit warren, but that’s part of the appeal. And you’ll be glad to know that the narrow streets serve a good purpose, as they provide protection from Seville’s oppressive sun in the summer months.
You also won’t want to miss the famous Plaza de España. Built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition, it’s an architectural marvel.
The plaza is breathtaking in size and beauty. Its semi-circular shape represents Spain embracing its former colonies, while the canal is said to symbolize the ocean linking Spain to the Americas. A set of graceful bridges is a nod to Venice and adds romantic charm to the place, while a grand fountain takes centerstage.
The buildings are a meld of Renaissance Revival and Moorish Revival styles. And they are a showcase of intricate tilework, with over 7,000 ceramic tiles depicting historical events, provinces of Spain, scenes from Spanish literature, and more. You might recognize this place, as Hollywood has used it as a backdrop for a number of films, including “Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones.”
Seville’s main waterway is the Guadalquivir River. To learn more about this river’s role in the city’s history, take a narrated river cruise. Along the way, you’ll get panoramic views from the top deck of the boat, while hearing about the various monuments you’ll see. These include San Telmo Palace, Maria Luisa Park, two pavilions of the Universal Exhibitions, the Torre del Oro or Gold Tower, and more. Plus, you’ll cross under all the differently styled bridges located on the route.
When you return, take a closer look at the Tower of Gold, which sits on the riverbank near where the cruise disembarks. It was built by the Moors in the 12th century to guard the city’s harbor and entrance to its Old Town. The tower was also used as a place for ships to discharge their cargo (gold). This landmark now serves as a small maritime museum, which is open to the public. If you climb up to its rooftop, you’ll be rewarded with stunning vistas.
Seville and flamenco go hand-in-hand, as the city is regarded as the birthplace of this art form. Head to the Christina Hoyos Flamenco Dance Museum for a deep dive into this fiery and passionate artistic expression. You’ll learn about the roots of flamenco and its evolution over the years, while discovering the influences of other cultures on this style. There are costumes, props and videos, and a giant screen that offers an immersive experience into flamenco choreography.
On another floor is the museum’s art space. Here, temporary and permanent exhibitions that show the influence of flamenco on art are on display.
If you time your visit right, you might get to watch a flamenco class in action, as there’s a rehearsal/teaching space, as well as a stage, in the building. Better yet, book tickets to one of the nightly live shows. They’re mesmerizing and exhilarating, a fusion of song, dance, and instrumental music. Performers convey intense emotions using postures, movements, and facial expressions. You’ll be in awe of their technique, control, and intensity. This is one experience you won’t forget!
For more flamenco, check out Seville’s Triana district. This charming neighborhood, which is on the other side of the river, boasts a vibrant flamenco culture and offers some of the most authentic and intimate flamenco shows in the area (typically in small bars late at night).
Look for the statue of a flamenco dancer on Triana’s small plaza by the bridge. “Triana Al Arte Flamenco” depicts a dancer with a guitar at her side and her foot resting on an anvil. It captures the singing and dancing elements of flamenco, while the anvil alludes to the origins of the art form, namely the gypsy blacksmiths.
Triana is also well-known for its traditional pottery and tile industry. Peruse the numerous shops and workshops for an eyeful of exquisite ceramics. And there’s an interesting museum, too, which tells the story of ceramics.
One of the city’s best indoor food markets is in Triana, and it’s fun to peruse all the goodies for sale. The Mercado de Triana, which dates back to 1823, is a testament to Seville’s rich cultural heritage. You’ll feel like you’re stepping back in time when you enter this storied gastronomic mecca with its traditional stalls. Here you’ll find a treasure trove of items representing Seville’s iconic cuisine, from Iberian ham to the freshest seafood and produce.
During my stay in Seville, Hotel Casa de Indias was my home base. This lovely boutique property is conveniently located next to the Plaza de la Encarnación, making it walkable to the city’s many sights and attractions, as well as to numerous cafes and restaurants. It’s also right next to Las Setas Viewpoint, known as Metropol Parasol.
This ginormous mushroom-shaped structure hangs above the Plaza like an umbrella on steroids. Made of laminated timber, it has the distinction of being the world’s largest wooden structure. The intricate design consists of lattices draped over concrete columns with more than 3,400 pieces. They appear to have been assembled together like a jigsaw puzzle.
This quirky sculpture was completed in 2011 and has helped revitalize the plaza area, which had become rundown over the years. For a fee, you can ascend the different levels and platforms (by foot or via an elevator) that afford 360-degree views of the city’s attractive rooftops and plazas. Or do as I did and head to the rooftop of Hotel Casa de Indias, where the views are free.
Debbie Stone is an established travel writer and columnist, and regular contributor for Big Blend Radio and Big Blend Magazines, who crosses the globe in search of unique destinations and experiences to share with her readers and listeners. She’s an avid explorer who welcomes new opportunities to increase awareness and enthusiasm for places, culture, food, history, nature, outdoor adventure, wellness, and more. Her travels have taken her to nearly 100 countries and all seven continents.
