ECHOES OF TIME: EXPLORING THE HISTORIC MOHAWK VALLEY OF CENTRAL NEW YORK
By Lisa Evans
“There is nothing new in the world except the history you do not know.” Harry S. Truman
St. Johnsville, New York, is ripe with Colonial history. It is a charming, quaint village located just over an hour west of Albany, situated along the Mohawk River. Although surrounded by history as I grew up here, my youthful mind never appreciated nor found it necessary to explore outside classes in high school. Within 15 minutes of my childhood home, there are places steeped in history – allowing them a place on the National Register of Historic Places.
Fort Klock is likely the most well-known of these places. This homestead, still intact and standing, was built in 1750 by Johannes Klock. Fort Klock played a prominent role in the Revolutionary War, with its owners taking part in the Battle of Oriskany and the bloody encounter known as the Battle of Klock’s Field. While Fort Klock is a fantastic place to visit, today, I would like to focus on lesser-known gems in the Mohawk Valley.
Together, let’s journey back to these places a few hundred years ago, to Colonial America and Europe in the 18th century, and learn about the people who emigrated to the American colonies in search of freedom and a better life. Let’s know of the ones who were already here and the places they built, which miraculously are still standing today – over 250 years later.
Indian Castle Church –
This quaint, beautiful church is located not far from either Little Falls in Herkimer County or St. Johnsville in Montgomery County. It is quite simply a lovely country church built in 1769 by Sir William Johnson.
Sir William was an honorary member of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel and the British Superintendent of Indian Affairs in the Colonies. It was built as a mission church to teach Christianity to the Mohawk Nation, one of the Five Nations of the Iroquois League. Molly and Joseph Brant, two prominent siblings of the Mohawk people of the time, donated the land on which the church stands. Molly was also Sir William’s companion for many years, having been mother to several of his children. Her brother Joseph became a Mohawk leader and war chief.
Today, it is the only Indian mission church still surviving in New York State. Its owners are the Indian Castle Church Preservation Society. The church itself is straightforward and lovely. In historical records, the listing is “a wooden church….50-foot-long by 32 wide”. Its dedication service was in June of 1770. Unfortunately, it never truly acquired a permanent catechist to live among the Mohawks, but neighboring missionaries performed frequent services.
During the Revolutionary War, the United States defeated the British. The building then stood vacant for quite some time. By 1855, the church was in desperate need of renovation, and a separate group of churches formed an accord to rebuild Indian Castle Church. Initially built facing east-west, the building was relocated during renovation at a 90-degree angle, so its entrance now faces north-south. The structure underwent many changes, but today, it still retains the original superstructure and a small window in the south attic wall. The roof still possesses its 18th-century steep pitch.
Behind the church lies a cemetery and burial grounds, which have original headstones and remains of both Mohawks and Europeans. It is an eerily beautiful spot, looking down on the church from the hill above. It is a peaceful resting place for its residents, some of whom have been there for centuries.
Old Palatine Church –
On State Route 5 between Nelliston and St. Johnsville, you will find this enchantingly humble church.
In the early 1700s, many Palatine Germans left their home along the Rhine Valley in southwest Germany in search of economic, religious, and social freedom. They first ventured to England. The Crown viewed them as a means to settle Colonial America, particularly in the Colony of New York, on the frontier, to help England maintain control over the land against the Indians and the French. Many settled in the Schoharie Valley, and many moved to the Mohawk Valley. These pioneers played a significant role in making America. They fought and died at the battles of Oriskany and Saratoga.
One such prominent family was the Nellis family. There were several branches – some were loyalists to the Crown, while others were colonial settlers intent on making a better life. The Nellis family was one of four who provided the necessary funding to build the Old Palatine Church in 1770, making it one of the oldest churches in the Mohawk Valley. It features massive stone walls crafted from limestone extracted from a nearby creek. It still has the gilded bronze rooster on top of the spire, donated by the Nellis family.
During the American Revolution, there were devastating raids across the Schoharie and Mohawk Valley. The British were burning all the farms, trying to force the colonists to retreat and leave the fertile farmland along the Mohawk River to the British. The plan was to resettle once after the war. One raid took place in 1780, not far from the church. While ravaging all the other farms, Old Palatine Church was not harmed. Legend says the British officer stopped there because he had made a promise to his friend Henry Nellis not to harm the church his family had built.
In 1938, the Palatine Society of the Evangelical Lutheran Church, Inc. took possession of the deed to maintain the integrity of the church’s history and ensure it would always serve as a place of worship.
Over the years, the building had fallen into disrepair, but with the generosity of local families, the restoration of the church became possible. Inside, you will find books and other items of historical significance housed in glass cases to preserve them. The open rafters in the ceiling, the pulpit, and the sparkling windows allow one to feel the magic of the building. Possibly the most explicit statement of this house of worship – besides the history that has seeped into its walls – is the pipe organ.
This magnificent pipe organ was built in 1978 by Robert S. Rowland in the fashion of organs built by David Tannenberg of the Moravian church. Mr. Tannenberg was the first notable organ builder in the 1700’s. Designed to match the interior of the church, it was the last organ built by Mr. Rowland during his long career, constructed in Ossining, NY, and transported and assembled inside Old Palatine Church.
The church earned its place on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973 and continues to hold limited worship services and special events today.
1747 Nellis Tavern –
Located just east of the village of St. Johnsville, on State Route 5, you will find Nellis Tavern. Another branch from the large Nellis family was Christian Nellis Sr., who moved into the Mohawk Valley in 1722. In 1725, he obtained land and built a homestead along with Fort Nellis near the Mohawk River. During the 18th century, it was customary for travelers to receive a place to stay; thus, by 1747, the Nellis Tavern was established. With that in mind, and with the tavern’s proximity to the Mohawk River, many travelers docked along the river and sought food and drink at the tavern. As my guide stated, it was rather like a “Bed and Breakfast with Booze.”
By 1767, Christian Sr. had deeded the property to Christian Jr., and the tavern tradition carried on. Not too many years beyond that, the Revolutionary War came to the area, and with it came a situation much like that of the Civil War almost a century later. While perhaps not considered at the time, the war pitted family members against family members – splitting them apart. Some fought for the Crown, and some fought for the Colonies. The Nellis family was not immune to this trend. Those loyal to the Crown burned much of the Mohawk Valley, but some buildings remained standing. Perhaps, as in the case of the Old Palatine Church, the Nellis family Loyalist connections saved the 1747 Nellis Tavern.
The building remained a tavern through the mid-1800s. Before the Civil War, it reverted to being strictly a farmhouse and homestead. Inhabited by members of the Nellis family until the 1950s, after that time, Nellis Tavern then fell into severe disrepair. In the 1980s, the Palatine Settlement Society purchased the land and building, and renovations began, a process that continues to this day.
The allure of the 1747 Nellis Tavern is not only in its history but also in its architectural and artistic components. Once inside, you can follow the history of the building through all its phases – it is truly fascinating. There are many nuances, and an actual visit is needed to appreciate them all. However, a few that stood out are listed below.
- The wattle and daub construction of the walls. This technique, commonly used in timber-framed houses, involves filling the area between the scored upright stakes with a mixture of wood, limbs, and other available materials combined with mud, dirt, or animal dung. Plaster covers this layer. This type of construction affords excellent insulation for the home.
- Despite the renovations, when inside the home, you can still see where the original buildings and walls were, as well as where those who came after added the second story, the different-sized doors in the center room, and the original staircase leading up to the second floor.
- The artistic stenciling on the walls of the home is truly incredible. Removing the wallpaper during the restoration revealed early 19th-century American stencils underneath. There are seventeen different patterns, including the thistle and tulip. Through a technical assistance grant, the Palatine Settlement Society was able to identically replicate the original stencils from the plaster walls on the newly installed sheetrock. When you see the intricate and beautiful stenciling, you are in awe of the work that goes into this type of art. In the first-floor parlor, there are still three separate stencil patterns, furthering evidence this was once three separate rooms.
- Established in the early 19th century, the Mohawk Turnpike now served as the means of travel for most. The house was ‘reoriented,’ meaning originally, the door to the home was facing the Mohawk River. The back door became the front and vice versa to ensure the travelers had full access to the tavern. To accommodate more guests, owners added a second story. I would be remiss if I did not mention the late 19th-century clasp Bible that is present. The Bible was a Nellis family heirloom from the William Nellis branch, which had settled near Stone Arabia. It was captivating to see something so sacred to the family on display.
Lovers of times past already know – the area in and around St. Johnsville, situated in the center of the Mohawk Valley, is rich in historical significance for those who choose to look and appreciate it. The next time you take a trip and want to explore some charming off-the-beaten-path places with monumental history at your fingertips, venture to the Mohawk Valley. From Albany, head west on the NYS Thruway (I-90) or Route 5. From Utica or Syracuse, head east. You will not be disappointed.
LISA EVANS is a travel writer and photographer, travel advisor, and author of “100 Things to Do in Coastal Mississippi Before You Die.” More at https://writerlisa.com/ and https://www.gosmart.travel/advisors/lisa/evans
