REIMS: FABULOUS CHAMPAGNE HOUSES & DINING AT MICHELIN-STARRED ARBANE RESTAURANT
By Scott Kendall
The third leg of our European journey brought us to Reims, in the heart of the Champagne wine region in northeastern France. If you’re a fan of world-class bubbly, jaw-dropping cathedrals, and exceptional cuisine, this charming and historic city is a must on your French itinerary.
We arrived in Reims via train from Frankfurt, but most travelers hop on the lightning-fast TGV from Paris—just 45 minutes and you’re in the land of bubbles. Julie and I spent four nights and three full days soaking up everything Reims has to offer, and we still weren’t ready to leave. From legendary Champagne houses to a phenomenal Michelin-starred lunch, Reims delivered sparkling moments at every turn.
Bubbles, Basilicas & Michelin Stars
Reims is home to some of the most prestigious Champagne houses in the world, and we visited six of them – Lanson, Mumm, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, Ruinart, and Pommery, all right in the city. The daily rhythm of our visit was perfect: one Champagne house in the morning, another in the afternoon, with great meals and scenic walks in between.
One of the highlights of our time in Reims was our lunch at Arbane Restaurant, the Michelin-starred gem by Chef Philippe Mille.
Arbane: A Michelin-Star Experience to Savor
Just a few minutes from our Airbnb, Arbane is tucked into a lovingly restored 1874 mansion, surrounded by flowering trees and a peaceful garden terrace. It’s hard to believe this tranquil oasis exists in the middle of busy Reims.
Chef Philippe Mille is a culinary artist who’s clearly in his element here. During our meal, he came out to greet each table—charming, humble, and clearly passionate about his craft.
We started with crisp Matthieu Godmé-Guillaume Champagne and delicate amuse-bouches of goat cheese mousse with spinach and lentils in Champagne jelly—served on the terrace, of course. Then came a glass of Les 7 Laherte Frères, followed by our entry into the elegant dining room, where our window table overlooked the garden.
Every dish was a showstopper, but one truly stood out – “Le Vitrail”, Mille’s homage to the rose window of Reims Cathedral. It’s a visual and flavor masterpiece made with langoustine carpaccio, vegetable mousseline, citrus accents, and even edible gold.
The cheese cart was unreal. A curated selection of regional cheeses included Chaource, Roquefort, Argonne goat, and many more. With attentive service, thoughtful pairings, and a blend of elegance and warmth, Arbane isn’t just a meal—it’s an experience. If you’re in Reims, go. You’ll remember it forever.
Champagne House Hopping in Reims
Now, let’s pop into the Champagne houses we visited over three sparkling days:
Lanson
Founded in 1760, Lanson is one of Reims’ oldest houses. Located in the city’s southwest, it’s about a 25-minute walk from the cathedral. Lanson is known for skipping malolactic fermentation, giving their Champagnes a crisp, age-worthy edge. Their blends of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier showcase freshness, depth, and balance. The cellars, the tasting, the heritage—it all made for a fabulous introduction to Reims’ Champagne world.
Mumm
At Mumm, history and elegance go hand in hand. The house was founded in 1827 by three German brothers and is famous for its red sash label – “Cordon Rouge” – a nod to the French Legion of Honor. Their massive 25 km of underground chalk cellars are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an unforgettable walk through centuries of Champagne craftsmanship. Their motto? “Only the best.” We’d have to agree.
Veuve Clicquot
This stop was personal. Our son and daughter-in-law had visited and insisted we go. And wow—we were glad we did. We learned all about Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot, a 27-year-old widow who revolutionized Champagne in the 1800s. She pioneered the riddling table and helped turn Champagne into an international luxury icon—even smuggling bottles into Russia during wartime!
We capped our visit with Champagne and burgers at the Veuve Café—yes, you read that right. A sunny terrace, bubbly in hand, burgers and fries on the plate, and not a care in the world.
Taittinger
Just five minutes from Veuve, Taittinger is built atop ancient Roman chalk quarries, once part of the Saint-Nicaise Abbey. It’s one of the few family-owned Champagne giants, now led by Vitalie Taittinger. The cellars are stunning—deep, cool, and full of history. We were fascinated by the abbey’s remains and the unique connection between winemaking, religion, and Reims’ Roman past.
Ruinart
The oldest Champagne house, founded in 1729, Ruinart is where it all began. The grounds have been recently renovated and are stunning, blending old-world elegance with modern minimalism and art. My favorite champagne was their Blanc de Blancs, made exclusively from Chardonnay – light, citrusy, and wonderfully refined. Their tasting salon includes works of art and a nod to Ruinart’s artistic heritage, including a vintage 1896 ad.
If you’re a fan of art and elegance, Ruinart is a must.
Lunch at Le Jardin Brasserie at Les Crayères
After our morning at Ruinart, we strolled over to Le Jardin Brasserie, part of the prestigious Les Crayères estate. This Bib Gourmand-awarded spot was created under the leadership of – you guessed it – Chef Philippe Mille, who ran the kitchens here until 2024. Now helmed by Chef Christophe Moret, the quality and creativity continue.
We opted for the three-course Menu Jardin. Julie started with a green asparagus velouté, and I had mackerel with pickled vegetables. For the main, we both chose Pollack in Thai-style sauce, delicately spiced and served with fresh seasonal vegetables.
Dessert? An Indonesian chocolate tart for Julie, and a strawberry-mint torte for me. The setting, service, and food all made for a relaxing, elegant midday break between Champagne tastings.
Final Stop: Pommery
We finished our Reims tasting circuit at the visually stunning Pommery Champagne House. Along with Taittinger, Pommery has one of the deepest cellars – a 116-step descent into vast Roman chalk quarries. Founded in 1858, Pommery was led to greatness by Madame Louise Pommery, another visionary widow who expanded the estate and commissioned the elaborate cellar system. The tour winds through dramatic tunnels with both historic bas-relief sculptures by Gustave Navlet and rotating modern art exhibits.
Don’t miss the Villa Demoiselle across the street – a beautifully preserved Art Nouveau mansion that offers a glimpse into the lavish world of early 20th-century Champagne society.
Reims Cathedral: A Crown Jewel
No trip to Reims would be complete without a visit to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims. This is where 25 French kings were crowned, including Charles VII – witnessed by Joan of Arc herself in 1429.
We walked the short 10 minutes from our BnB to the cathedral and were awestruck by its Gothic architecture, soaring vaulted ceilings, and vibrant stained glass. Inside, we caught the animated clock striking 11:00, complete with moving figures. Magical.
Final Toast
Reims more than lived up to its reputation. It’s a place where history, Champagne, and gastronomy collide in the most delightful way. Whether you’re sipping a vintage cuvée, wandering Roman chalk cellars, or savoring artfully prepared dishes in a garden terrace, Reims wraps you in its warm, sparkling embrace.
And for those visiting Paris? It’s just 45 minutes from Paris. Santé to that!
Scott Kendall is Editor of PlayStayEat.com as well as a freelance travel writer, photographer, and videographer based in The Woodlands, Texas. He has traveled extensively throughout the US and Europe, including several trips to Italy, Germany, Slovenia, Croatia, England, Ireland, and France. In addition to writing for PlayStayEat, Scott has written for EuropeUpClose, Epicurean Traveler, Food Wine Travel Magazine, International Living, Miles Geek, Travel and Talk, and other publications. His published work and videos can be seen at https://playstayeat.com/ and. Scott is a member of SATW, IFWTWA, and TravMedia.
